Contributors

viii

Foreword   Jeffrey S. Dover

xiv

Introduction: Definition of Cosmetic Dermatology   Zoe D. Draelos

xv

SECTION I

BASIC CONCEPTS

1

Part One

Skin Physiology Pertinent to Cosmetic Dermatology

3

1

Epidermal Barrier   Sreekumar Pillai, Marc Cornell, and Christian Oresajo

3

2

Photoaging   Murad Alam and Jillian Havey

13

3

Self-Perceived Sensitive Skin   Olivier de Lacharrière

22

4

Pigmentation and Skin of Color   Chesahna Kindred and Rebat M. Halder

27

5

Sensitive Skin and the Somatosensory System   Francis McGlone and David Reilly

38

6

Novel, Compelling Non-Invasive Techniques for Evaluating Cosmetic Products   Thomas J. Stephens, Christian Oresajo, Robert Goodman, Margarita Yatskayer, and Paul Kavanaugh

47

7

Contact Dermatitis and Topical Agents   David E. Cohen and Aieska de Sauza

55

Part Two

Delivery of Cosmetic Skin Actives

62

8

Percutaneous Delivery of Cosmetic Actives to the Skin   Marc Cornell, Sreekumar Pillai, and Christian Oresajo

62

9

Creams, Lotions, and Ointments   Irwin Palefsky

71

SECTION II

HYGIENE PRODUCTS

75

Part One

Cleansers

77

10

Bar Cleansers   Anthony W. Johnson and K.P. Ananthapadmanabhan

77

11

Personal Cleansers: Body Washes   Keith Ertel and Heather Focht

88

12

Facial Cleansers and Cleansing Cloths   Erik Hasenoehrl

95

13

Non-Foaming and Low-Foaming Cleansers   Duncan Aust

102

14

Liquid Hand Cleansers and Sanitizers   Duane Charbonneau

106

15

Shampoos for Normal Scalp Hygiene and Dandruff   James R. Schwartz, Marcela Valenzuela, and Sanjeev Midha

15

Part Two

Moisturizers

123

16

Facial Moisturizers   Yohini Appa

123

17

Hand and Loot Moisturizers   Teresa M. Weber, Andrea M. Schoelermann, Ute Breitenbach, Ulrich Scherdin, and Alexandra Kowcz

130

18

Sunless Tanning Products   Angelike Galdi, Peter Foltis, and Christian Oresajo

139

19

Sunscreens   Dominique Moyal, Angelike Galdi, and Christian Oresajo

144

Part Three

Personal Care Products

150

20

Antiperspirants and Deodorants   Eric S. Abrutyn

150

21

Blade Shaving   Keith Ertel and Gillian McFeat

156

SECTION III

ADORNMENT

165

Part One

Colored Facial Cosmetics

167

22

Facial Foundation   Sylvie Guichard and Véronique Roulier

167

23

Camouflage Techniques   Anne Bouloc

176

24

Lips and Lipsticks   Catherine Heusèle, Hervé Cantin, and Frédéric Bonté

184

25

Eye Cosmetics   Sarah A. Vickery, Peter Wyatt, and John Gilley

190

Part Two

Nail Cosmetics

197

26

Nail Physiology and Grooming   Phoebe Rich and Heh Shin R, Kwak

197

27

Colored Nail Cosmetics and Hardeners   Paul H. Bryson and Sunil J. Sirdesai

206

28

Cosmetic Prostheses as Artificial Nail Enhancements   Douglas Schoon

215

Part Three

Hair Cosmetics

222

29

Hair Physiology and Grooming   Maria Hordinsky, Ana Paula Avandni Caramori, and Jeff D. Donovan

222

30

Hair Dyes   Frauke Neuser and Harald Schlatter

227

31

Permanent Hair Waving   Annette Schwan-Jonczyk and Gerhard Sendelbach

236

32

Hair Straightening   Harold Bryant, Felicia Dixon, Angela Ellington, and Crystal Porter

248

33

Hair Styling – Technology and Formulations   Thomas Krause, Rene Rust, and Dianna C. Kenneally

256

SECTION IV

ANTIAGING

267

Part One

Cosmeceuticals

269

34

Botanicals   Carl Thornfeldt

269

35

Antioxidants and Anti-Inflammatories   Bryan B. Fuller

281

36

Peptides and Proteins   Karl Lintner

292

37

Cellular Growth Factors   Richard E. Fitzpatrick and Rahul C. Mehta

302

38

Retinoids   Olivier Sorg, Gürkan Kaya, Behrooz Kasraee, and Jean H. Saurat

309

39

Topical Vitamins   Donald L. Bissett

319

40

Clinical Uses of Hydroxyacids   Barbara Green, Eugene J. Van Scott, and Ruey Yu

327

41

The Contribution of Dietary Nutrients and Supplements to Skin Health   Helen Knaggs, Steve Wood, Doug Burke, and Jan Lephart

335

Part Two

Injectable Antiaging Techniques

342

42

Botulinum Toxins   Joel L. Cohen and Scott R. Freeman

342

43

Hyaluronic Acid Fillers   Mark S. Nestor

352

44

Calcium Hydroxylapatite for Soft Tissue Augmentation   Stephen Mandy

356

45

Skin Fillers   Neil Sadick, Misbah H. Khan, and Babar K. Rao

361

46

Polylactic Acid Fillers   Kenneth R. Beer

373

Part Three

Resurfacing Techniques

377

47

Superficial Chemical Peels   M. Amanda Jacobs and Randall Roenigk

377

48

Medium Depth Chemical Peels   Gary D. Monheit and Jens J. Thiele

384

49

CO₂ Laser Resurfacing: Confluent and Fractionated   Mitchel P. Goldman

393

50

Non-Ablative Resurfacing   David J. Goldberg and Katie Rossy

409

51

Microdermabrasion   Pearl Grimes

418

52

Dermabrasion   Christopher Harmon and Chad Prather

426

Part Four

Skin Modulation Techniques

432

53

Laser-Assisted Hair Removal   Keyvan Nouri, Voraphol Vejjabhinanta, Nidhi Avashia, and Rawat Charoensawad

432

54

Radiofrequency Devices   Vic Narurkar

439

55

LED Photomodulation for Reversal of Photoaging and Reduction of Inflammation   Robert Weiss, Roy Geronemus, David McDaniel, and Corinne Granger

444

Part Five

Skin Contouring Techniques

450

56

Liposuction: Manual, Mechanical, and Laser Assisted   Emily Tierney and C. William Hanke

450

57

Liposuction of the Neck   Kimberly J. Butterwick

463

58

Hand Recontouring with Calcium Hydroxylapatite   Kenneth L. Edelson

473

Part Six

Implementation of Cosmetic Dermatology into Therapeutics

480

59

Antiaging Regimens   Karen E. Burke

480

60

Over-The-Counter Acne Treatments   Emmy M. Graber and Diane Thiboutot

488

61

Rosacea Regimens   Joseph Bikowski

495

62

Eczema Regimens   Zoe D. Draelos

502

63

Psoriasis Regimens   Steven R. Feldman and Lindsay C. Strowd

507

Index

514