Table
of Contents
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Acknowledgments |
x |
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About Dr. Lees |
xi |
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Letter to
the Reader |
xii |
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Chapter 1 |
Advanced
Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin |
1 |
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The Structure of the Cell |
2 |
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A Day in the Life of a Cell |
3 |
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The Nucleus |
4 |
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Cell Specialization |
5 |
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Physiology of the Skin |
6 |
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The Epidermis |
8 |
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Barrier Function of the Skin |
11 |
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Specialized Cells and Pigmentation |
13 |
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Skin Penetration |
14 |
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In Conclusion |
20 |
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Chapter 2 |
Hygiene and
Sterilization Techniques |
23 |
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Sterilization |
26 |
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Disposable Materials |
29 |
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Nondisposable Items |
29 |
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General Cleaning |
32 |
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About OSHA |
33 |
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Protecting You and Your Clients from Disease |
34 |
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In Conclusion |
37 |
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Chapter 3 |
The Immune
System |
43 |
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Components or the Immune System |
44 |
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How Medicine Helps the Immune System |
46 |
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The Immunity Role of the Skin |
46 |
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How the Immune System Communicates with Itself |
48 |
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About Cancer |
49 |
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Inflammation and Free Radicals |
50 |
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Autoimmune Diseases |
52 |
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In Conclusion |
56 |
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Chapter 4 |
Communicable
Diseases |
57 |
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Common Diseases that Affect the Skin Care Practice |
58 |
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MRSA |
60 |
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About AIDS |
61 |
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How People Get Infected with AIDS |
61 |
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Testing for the AIDS Virus |
62 |
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Symptoms of HIV Infection |
63 |
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Treatment of Aids and HIV Infection |
64 |
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Prevention of AIDS |
65 |
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Personal Precautions |
66 |
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Dispelling Myths About AIDS |
66 |
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AIDS and the Esthetician |
66 |
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Skin Symptoms Associated with AIDS |
67 |
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Skin Cancers Associated with AIDS |
70 |
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The Mental and Emotional State of |
71 |
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Handling Client Questions About AIDS |
72 |
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AIDS and the Future |
72 |
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About Hepatitis |
72 |
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AIDS/HIV Knowledge Quiz |
74 |
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In Conclusion |
75 |
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Chapter 5 |
Hormones |
77 |
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The Endocrine Glands |
78 |
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Hormones Produced by the Ovaries and Testes |
82 |
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Hormonal Phases of Life |
83 |
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Pregnancy |
87 |
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Premenstrual Syndrome |
90 |
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Birth Control Pills |
92 |
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Menopause |
93 |
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Skin Conditions Associated with Menopause |
94 |
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About Hirsutism |
97 |
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Obesity, Anorexia, and Hormones |
97 |
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In Conclusion |
97 |
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Chapter 6 |
Skin
Analysis |
99 |
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Fitzpatrick Skin Typing |
100 |
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Esthetic Skin Typing |
101 |
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Skin Types versus Skin Conditions |
104 |
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The Skin Analysis Procedure |
104 |
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Dehydration |
107 |
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Pore or Follicle-Related Conditions |
109 |
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Redness Conditions |
113 |
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Pigmentation Conditions |
113 |
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Aging and Sun Damage |
116 |
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Medical Conditions of the Skin |
118 |
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Prioritizing Analysis Observations |
119 |
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Client Confidentiality |
119 |
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In Conclusion |
120 |
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Chapter 7 |
Recognize
and Refer Medical Conditions |
121 |
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Primary and Secondary Lesions |
122 |
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Acne |
123 |
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Common Infections of the Skin |
123 |
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Common Reactions, Rashes, and Irritations |
131 |
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Vascular Lesions |
135 |
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Growths |
136 |
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Commonly Used Prescription Dermatological Drugs |
137 |
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Cortisone |
138 |
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In Conclusion |
139 |
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Chapter 8 |
Essential
Knowledge of Chemistry |
141 |
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Principles of Chemistry |
142 |
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How Chemical Reactions Take Place |
147 |
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Chemicals Found in the Skin and Body |
147 |
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Ph, Acids, and Bases |
148 |
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Chemical Terms Estheticians should Know |
151 |
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In Conclusion |
152 |
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Chapter 9 |
Cosmetic
Chemistry and Functional Ingredients |
153 |
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About Water |
154 |
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Emollients |
155 |
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Fatty Acids |
156 |
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Fatty Alcohols |
157 |
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Fatty Esters |
157 |
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Surfactants |
158 |
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Emulsifiers |
159 |
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Physical Emulsions |
161 |
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Solvents |
162 |
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Antimicrobials and Preservatives |
162 |
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Other Types of Preservatives |
164 |
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Chelating Agents |
165 |
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Buffering Agents |
165 |
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Gellants and Thickening Agents |
165 |
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Coloring Agents |
165 |
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High-Tech Vehicles |
166 |
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Micelles |
167 |
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Liposomes and Microencapsulation |
167 |
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Other Innovative Vehicles |
169 |
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In Conclusion |
169 |
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Chapter 10 |
Performance
Ingredients and Active Ingredients |
171 |
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“Cosmeceutical” Ingredients |
172 |
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Cleansing Agents |
172 |
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Performance Agents in Toners |
174 |
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A Word About Alcohol |
174 |
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Performance Ingredients for Dehydrated Skin |
175 |
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Hydrating Ingredients |
175 |
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Other Humectants |
176 |
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Occlusives |
177 |
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Emollients |
177 |
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Products for Dry Skin |
178 |
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Ingredients for Aging Skin |
179 |
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Alpha Hydroxy Acids |
179 |
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More Antiaging Ingredients |
182 |
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Combining Antiaging Ingredients |
186 |
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Plant Extracts |
187 |
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Performance Ingredients for Sensitive Skin |
187 |
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Over-the-Counter Drugs |
189 |
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Performance Ingredients for Oily and Acne-Prone Skin |
192 |
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In Conclusion |
193 |
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Chapter 11 |
Skin Care
Products |
195 |
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A Visit to the Product Stockroom |
196 |
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Cleansers |
196 |
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Toners |
201 |
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Day Creams and Treatments |
203 |
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Night Creams and Treatments |
205 |
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About Ampoules and Serums |
209 |
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Special Creams and Treatments |
210 |
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How Products are Developed |
215 |
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In Conclusion |
217 |
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Chapter 12 |
Claims in
Cosmetics |
219 |
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Drug versus Cosmetic |
220 |
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Verbal Claims |
221 |
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The Labeling Law |
221 |
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Drug Labeling |
223 |
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Other Cosmetic Claims |
224 |
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Buying Products for Your Salon |
227 |
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In Conclusion |
228 |
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Chapter 13 |
Sensitive
Skin, Allergies, and Irritants |
229 |
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Sensitive Skin |
230 |
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Genetic Factors Affecting Sensitive Skin |
230 |
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Analysis of Sensitive Skin |
230 |
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Sensitive Skin and Barrier Function |
232 |
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Respecting the Barrier Function |
232 |
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The Inflammation Cascade |
233 |
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Analysis Technique |
234 |
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Allergies, Irritants, and Contact Dermatitis |
235 |
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Irritant Reactions |
236 |
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Allergic Reactions |
237 |
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Common Allergens |
238 |
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Noncosmetic Allergies |
244 |
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Eyelid Dermatitis |
245 |
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Treatment Concepts for Sensitive Skin |
246 |
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Irritancy and Allergy Testing |
247 |
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Treatment Contraindications for Treating Sensitive Skin |
248 |
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Suggested Treatment for Sensitive Skin |
249 |
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If a Client has a Reaction in the Treatment Room |
250 |
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Home-Care Concepts for Sensitive Skin |
250 |
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At-Home Skin Care Programs for Sensitive Skin |
251 |
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Consultation for Clients with Sensitive Skin |
254 |
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Medical Treatment of Allergies and Contact Dermatitis |
254 |
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External Factors that Influence Sensitivities |
255 |
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In Conclusion |
256 |
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Chapter 14 |
Rosacea |
259 |
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Causes of Rosacea |
262 |
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Lifestyle Triggers for Rosacea |
263 |
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The Role of the Esthetician in Rosacea
Management |
269 |
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Goals of Esthetic Treatment for Clients with Rosacea |
270 |
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Choosing Skin Care Products for Clients with Rosacea |
270 |
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Step-by-Step Home-Care Recommendations for Clients with Rosacea |
272 |
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Salon Treatment for Clients with Rosacea |
273 |
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Light-Emitting Diode Treatment for Redness |
273 |
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Get to Know the Rosacea Skin |
273 |
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In Conclusion |
274 |
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Chapter 15 |
Acne and
the Esthetician |
275 |
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Common Acne |
276 |
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Hereditary Factors in Acne |
276 |
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Noninflammatory and Inflammatory Acne Lesions |
276 |
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Environmental Factors that Influence Acne |
287 |
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Overcleaning |
288 |
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Self-Trauma Excoriations |
288 |
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Nutrition and Diet |
289 |
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Acne and Cosmetics |
290 |
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Acne-Related Conditions |
290 |
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Concepts of Acne Treatment |
292 |
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Treatment Products and Ingredients for Acne |
294 |
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Home-Care Products for Clients with Acne |
297 |
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Topical Drugs Often Prescribed by the Dermatologist for Acne
Treatment |
303 |
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Dermatological Treatment of Cysts |
307 |
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Light Therapy for Acne |
307 |
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Analysis Technigue for Acne or
Problem Skin |
308 |
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Using Glycolic and Other Peels for Acne |
311 |
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In Conclusion |
312 |
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Chapter 16 |
Comedogenicity |
313 |
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Background |
314 |
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Testing for Comedogenicity |
316 |
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Other Tests |
317 |
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Types of Ingredients that are Often Comedogenic |
318 |
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The Chemistry Behind Comedogenicity |
320 |
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Comedogenic Produce Analysis |
323 |
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Dehydrated, Clogged Skin |
325 |
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Clinical Comedogenics |
326 |
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Client Product Analysis |
327 |
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In Conclusion |
328 |
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Chapter 17 |
Extraction |
329 |
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Analysis of the Need for Extraction |
330 |
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Open Comedones |
333 |
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Pre-Softening Before Extraction |
334 |
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Other Pre-Extraction Procedures |
335 |
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Hygiene and Extraction |
336 |
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Extraction of Open Comedones |
336 |
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Closed Comedones |
338 |
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Extraction of Closed Comedones |
338 |
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Extraction of Pustules |
339 |
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Facial Treatment Before and After Extraction |
340 |
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Extraction of Milia |
341 |
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Lesions Around the Eyes |
344 |
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Treating Clogged and Dehydrated Skin |
345 |
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Solar Blackheads |
345 |
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Duration of Extraction |
346 |
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In Conclusion |
347 |
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Chapter 18 |
The
Intrinsic Aging Process |
349 |
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Heredity and Genetics |
352 |
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What Causes the Symptoms of Skin Aging? |
352 |
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Prevention and Management of Aging Skin |
355 |
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The Beginning of Aging |
357 |
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Dermal and Epidermal Structural Changes |
358 |
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Age Spots |
358 |
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Psychological Effects of Aging |
358 |
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Specific Home-Care Programs for the Aging Skin |
359 |
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Facial Treatments for Aging Skin |
360 |
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In Conclusion |
362 |
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Chapter 19 |
Sun and Sun
Damage |
363 |
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Short-Term Sun Problems |
365 |
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Long-Term Photo Damage |
369 |
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Skin Cancers and Other Sun-Related Skin Growths |
371 |
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Prevention of Sun Damage |
376 |
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Sun Skin Types |
378 |
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Types of Sunscreens |
380 |
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Time of Day and the Sun |
380 |
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Frequent Misconceptions About Sun Damage and Sunbathing |
380 |
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The Quest for the Golden Tan |
382 |
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Self-Tanning Products |
387 |
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In Conclusion |
388 |
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Chapter 20 |
The New
Science of Aging Skin Treatment |
391 |
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Photo Damage |
392 |
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The New Science of Aging Skin Treatment |
392 |
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Analysis of Photoaging Skin |
393 |
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Treatment of Photoaging Skin |
394 |
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Prevention is Still the Best Treatment |
411 |
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In Conclusion |
411 |
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Chapter 21 |
Chemical
Peeling and Exfoliation Procedures |
413 |
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Surface Exfoliation |
414 |
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Salon Exfoliation Treatments |
416 |
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Alpha Hydroxy and Clycolic
Peeling Treatments |
418 |
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The Pre-Peel Consultation |
428 |
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The Superficial Peeling Procedure |
428 |
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After the Treatment |
432 |
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Reactions to Peeling |
432 |
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In Conclusion |
433 |
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Chapter 22 |
Plastic and
Cosmetic Surgery: Treating the Patient |
435 |
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Concerns of the Patient |
436 |
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Plastic Surgery |
436 |
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Types of Surgeons |
437 |
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Common Types of Cosmetic Surgery |
437 |
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Esthetic Management of the Post-Laser Patient |
453 |
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Procedures for the Esthetician |
455 |
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Other Surgical Procedures |
460 |
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Referrals |
465 |
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In Conclusion |
465 |
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Chapter 23 |
Cosmetic
Medicine and Medical Relations |
467 |
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How Estheticians Work with Physicians |
468 |
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Medical Training |
468 |
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Other Doctors |
469 |
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What is “Paramedical” Esthetics? |
469 |
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Cosmetic Dermatology and Medical Spas |
470 |
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Establishing a Relationship with a Doctor |
475 |
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What Doctors Like…and Don’t Like |
477 |
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Your First Contact with a Dermatologist |
478 |
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Doctors’ Concerns |
478 |
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How to Refer a Client |
480 |
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Working with the Plastic Surgeon |
482 |
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In Conclusion |
483 |
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Chapter 24 |
The
Scientific Approach |
485 |
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The Scientific Method |
486 |
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Evaluating Products |
487 |
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In Conclusion |
490 |
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Bibliography
and Recommended |
493 |
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Index |
495 |
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